Another pilgrim monument as we head out of Burgos. I need no reminding. My feet are doing that for me.
This map of the Camino does nothing to encourage me. Or my feet. Seeing where we are and where we have to be in the days left, 30 km a day seems like no progress at all.
The next town we arrive at has no facilities, so to Rabé de las Calzados it is. Here, two albergues face us across the plaza. By chance, we choose the one on the left...
...and we meet Michelle and Felix, two angels of mercy. There are volumes that could be said about Michelle and Felix and the Hospital de Peregrinos Santa Marina y Santiago. The albergue is their private residence, with two rooms at the front open to pilgrims--bathroom with shower and an 8-bed room. Everything is very clean (Michelle's rules for preventing bedbugs, which may seem a bit fanatical, but who could blame her? It is, after all, their home.) and the whole building has been renovated. It is modern, yet warm and inviting. The reception room walls are two-stories tall and covered with Camino-abilia, religious and historical items, and a visual record of Felix's multiple, multiple completions of the Camino.
Staying with Michelle and Felix is like visiting a favorite aunt and uncle. Although there is an interview process (they have very strong opinions on whom they invite to share their home), once Michelle has accepted you, you are treated like family. There is fabulous homemade food around their large kitchen table, lively conversation--in Spanish, which is fine with me because I don't even have to feign interest or feel obliged to contribute--and plenty of advice borne of experience.
Oh, remember that cross we saw this morning? In his younger days, Felix and several friends erected it. The framed photo and article are in the registration room, which, incidentally, houses the original house well. Felix will offer you a refreshing cup of water while Michelle registers you.
There is more, so much more; but it is the same with anything I post; I could hardly share it all because it is overwhelming. I doubt I'm processing half of what my body and mind are experiencing.
Total for the day: 32.8 km
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